La Città della Luce part II

I have arrived safely in Siena and am getting settled at my home for the next three weeks. My host is a friendly older woman, my room is clean and bright, and I’m about ten minutes by bus from the historical city center. I don’t have internet access at home, but I do at school, so the blogging shall continue uninterrupted from here on. Anyway! There is still much of Paris left to talk about, so I won’t keep you waiting.

After leaving Notre Dame, I crossed to the north side of the river and walked west along it until I reached the Louvre.

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The statue in the courtyard is of King Louis XIV, who in 1682 chose to change residence from the Palais de Louvre to Versailles, thus allowing the palace to be used as a residence for artists.

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The famous palace was built on the foundations of an earlier 12th-century fortress, parts of which are part of the museum’s exhibition beneath the ground floor. It was converted to a public museum after the French Revolution and opened officially in 1793. You enter the museum through the iconic glass pyramid and descend into a mall-like foyer with entrances into the different wings of the museum, cafes, and gift shops.

The Louvre is enormous. It contains wing after wing of 35,000 works of art, housed in 650,000 square feet of space, spanning two millennia and three continents at least. I had already seen the Roman art and artifacts (it briefly was shown at the Seattle Art Museum a few years back), but I lingered among the Greek statues and the Italian Renaissance paintings, and spent as long as I could gazing into the eyes of the Mona Lisa (but only after fighting to the front of the mob of tourists gathered around her). I wandered the halls for a good two hours, occasionally getting lost and having to backtrack, and once I’d had my fill, I made my exit through the glass pyramid and went to stroll the Tuileries.

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It drizzled on and off and there were low clouds for most of the day, but now and then the Eiffel Tower emerged in the distance.

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I stopped for a light lunch at Café le Nemours, just a few minutes across the street from the Louvre: a green salad with warm chevre on toasted bread.

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After the fuel-up (and more urgently, the chance to rest my already-aching feet), I headed across the river to the Musée Orsay.

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Where the Louvre leaves off at about 1850, Orsay picks up the baton with 19th century Conservative, Neoclassical, Realist, and Impressionist paintings and sculptures. A little pressed for time, I went straight to the top floor for the Impressionists and basked in Monet and Degas for a while, then backtracked to the second floor for Van Gogh.

After I’d taken in about as much classic art as my brain could process in one day, I took a stroll up the Champs-Elysées, surrounded on all sides by glittering storefronts and expensive restaurants. The rain had started up again, so I put away my camera and just walked, heading towards the Arc de Triomphe, where I took the metro south to the Eiffel Tower.

It’s a few blocks’ walk from the nearest metro station, but the tower is hard to miss. At the time of its construction culminating in 1889, it was the tallest structure in the world, 1,063 feet including the antenna. It was constructed using 7,300 tons of iron and took just over two years to build (about one-hundredth of the time needed to build Notre Dame—how things have changed!).

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While it is possible to take elevators to any of the three levels of the tower, I opted to save money and avoid lines by taking the stairs.

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Remember last year’s 463-step ascent to the cupola of the Duomo of Florence? It is 670 steps to the second story of the Eiffel Tower. My legs ached for days.

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I didn’t go up to the third and highest level (I was having bad enough vertigo as it was, the elevator lines were long, and sunset had come and gone), but they say that the view is best from the second level, anyway.

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Just as I was getting ready to return to solid ground, they switched on the lights.

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I made my sore and breathless way back down to earth through the blinding golden floodlights, and followed the crowds across the bridge to place de Trocadéro.

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After sunset, for five minutes, the tower comes alive with dancing white lights.

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I ended the long day at Café Bonaparte, a block off of boulevard St. Germain, with steak tartare (raw, seasoned, ground beef on toasted bread) and a glass of cider.

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Next up: a morning in Pisa!

La Città della Luce

Buongiorno (or should I say bonjour?), amici! You are probably wondering what is taking me so long to get this thing started. Well, I’ve been in Paris for two days, and I haven’t had any downtime for anything other than sleeping. I wrote much of this post at the Orly airport, and I am finishing and posting it from Pisa (tomorrow, I will do a little sightseeing before catching a train to Siena in the afternoon).

I arrived in Paris on Thursday and caught a cab to place de le Bastille. The most prominent structure there now is the Opera, which is glaringly modern.

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From there, I took a long walk through Marais, which included a light lunch (an omelette with Roquefort and walnuts) at a chic teahouse called Le Loir dans le Theiere (the doormouse in the teapot).

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Its walls sporting advertisements for local theatre and music events plus a hand-painted Alice in Wonderland themed mural, Le Loir appears to be a popular spot for Parisians of all ages; there was hardly room to move around the tables, and I was seated at what was probably the last open chair, at a table with a few teenagers visiting from Switzerland. The omelette and the tea were sublime.

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I strolled from Marais across the river and made a lap around the east end of Île de la Cité.

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Most notably, I circled around Notre Dame. Check out those flying buttresses.

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And around to the facade!

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After my walk, I hopped on the metro to my hotel on rue de Rennes. I didn’t get much else done that day; jet lag was starting to set in, so I wandered out for a quick dinner and went to bed soon after. The jet lag didn’t last, fortunately, and I woke up the next morning ready for a very long day.

I had a chocolate pastry for breakfast at a corner patisserie, and then set off for Île de la Cité via metro. I started at Sainte-Chapelle, the outside of which is a little dull (the Gothic style is similar to Notre Dame but on a smaller scale) and the inside of which is beyond amazing.

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The first floor is notable for the brightly-painted ceiling and arches.

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The second is notable for some of the most intricate stained glass you’ll ever see. The 14 windows depict the entire Christian history of the world, from Genesis to the Apocalypse.

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Sainte-Chapelle was comissioned in the 13th century by King Louis IX to house several relics, including the Crown of Thorns. These relics are now kept in a more secure location, though it is occasionally brought out for display in the elevated pulpit.

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(Open this one up for a higher-resolution view, to see more detail of the stained glass:)

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After Sainte Chapelle, I returned to Notre Dame and went inside.

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Notre Dame (“Our Lady”) de Paris is another Gothic cathedral, with architectural features similar to the duomi of Siena and Milan. Construction began in 1163 and continued until roughly 1345, though it has undergone frequent repairs, remodels, and reconstruction (particularly after the French Revolution, during which many historical sites were vandalized). Its 7,800-pipe organ (not pictured, though goodness knows I tried), made by François-Henri Clicquot, was installed in the 1700s and rebuilt a century later by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

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Inside, there is a memorial to Joan of Arc, who led the French army during the Hundred Years’ War. The decision to declare her a martyr was made at Notre Dame some 25 years after her death.

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Look at the painted detail of the stained glass (close-up from the treasury).

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Leaving the cathedral, on the wall to the right of the door, there are statues of angels and a saint (I haven’t been able to find out who) holding his own decapitated head.

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Who are all these guys on the front (again, open it up for a higher resolution view)?

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These twenty-eight statues represent the Kings of Judah, distant ancestors of Mary and Jesus, though they also are said to represent historical kings of France. Fun fact: the statues were actually beheaded during the French Revolution. One assumes that new heads were sculpted some time after, as most of the heads were not even recovered until 1977.

That is all for the moment! Check back soon for further adventures in the City of Light.