Belated Happy Holidays and Happy New Year!
Category: firenze
February 4-13: Fiera del Cioccolato
First of all, Venice is completely amazing, but you’ll get to hear about THAT next post.
Anyway, I don’t think that this entry requires a whole lot of explanation from me; suffice to say that Carnevale season is approaching, and all last week there was a Chocolate Fair in the piazza by the church of Santa Croce. Italian chocolate in all of its wondrous forms, plus other goodies like jams, liqueurs, and soft candies… for once, I’ll let the photos speak for themselves.
Yep, that is real chocolate.
And as a bonus, two photos from the neighborhood around my school:
And that is all for today!
January 21: Il Battistero, e Firenze di Notte
My mother came to visit for a week at the end of January, but because I am doing this thing in a mostly chronological fashion, those adventures must be left for another time. I mention it because I went into the Duomo’s Baptistery while I was waiting for her to arrive.
The Baptistry sits at the west of the Piazza del Duomo and is one of the oldest buildings still standing in Florence. The structure itself dates to the 11th century; the bronze north doors, by Ghiberti, to 1401, effectively marking the very beginning of the Renaissance. The ceiling, a mosaic made of Venetian glass, was made in the 1200s.
Like the frescoes in the Renaissance dome of the neighboring cathedral, the mosaic depicts the Last Judgment.
The marble walls and almost all of the windows are gilded and decorated.
I left the Baptistry and went to meet my mother at the station. We proceeded to have a very busy weekend (including, but not limited to, the last day of a special Bronzino exhibit in Palazzo Strozzi, the lavish rooms and the Modern Art museum at Palazzo Pitti, and a day trip to Fiesole, which I will share with you soon), but because it’s all too much to write about at once, I will beg once more for your patience and tide you over with some shots from the last few weeks of Florence by night.
The Arno after sunset:
Piazza Santa Maria Novella:
Palazzo Vecchio, from Piazza della Signora:
The streets begin to clear as the temperature drops:
Piazza della Reppublica:
It’s not hard to see why I love this city so much.
Ponte Vecchio ed il Giardino di Boboli
Well, it’s been so long that I can’t even remember the date that we went to the Boboli Gardens, but the photos have been sitting on my harddrive for ages. Anyway, as you can surely see, I am, as a matter of fact, not dead; I slipped a disc in my neck two weeks ago and thus haven’t been able to do much photo editing or much photography. Or much of anything at all. I am on the mend at last, though.
The Boboli Gardens are the ultimate back yard, constructed behind the palace where the Medici family (and many subsequent rulers of Florence and Tuscany) resided. They span 11 acres and include sculptures, terraces, and cats.
I didn’t photograph a whole lot of greenery, being generally more interested in the preserved art and sculptures.
As you go up to the higher areas of the garden, you find an amazing view of Florence.
Buontalenti’s Grotto is easy to miss, tucked away to the left of the entrance, but it’s worth hunting for.
Did I mention that there were cats?
Earlier in the day, I walked around Ponte Vecchio.
That’s all for now!
12 January: Sul Duomo, Sopra il Mondo
After falling down a flight of stairs at a restaurant yesterday (this was before the wine-tasting, thank you very much), I did wonder if attempting to climb the Duomo’s 463 steps was the smartest of ideas. Thankfully, my ego was the only part of me that was hurt in the incident, and not only was today’s weather magnificent, but there was no line to get in, either! How could I pass it up?
The entrance to the cupola is hidden away on one side of the cathedral, where you pay, receive your ticket, and then start the long climb. How long is it? Well, I didn’t count the number or keep track of the time, but there are signs all over the ticket booth warning you that if you have a heart condition, you should not attempt it. The signs say that there are 463 steps, plus some additional walking as you circle the inside of the dome or go between staircases.
The staircases are narrow stone-and-brick passageways lit by electric lights and windows at regular intervals. At first, the stairway structure is rectangular, but it soon becomes a tight spiral. Along the way, you stop off at a few rooms with statues and art and so on.
More staircases and passageways.
A bit before the halfway point, you circle around inside of the dome, with an excellent view of the frescoes painted therein. From the ground, due to the distance and the angle, they’re pretty hard to see, but from here, it’s much easier to absorb the details.
Although you can’t see the entire work in this photo (I was shooting over a plastic barrier and couldn’t get an angle that would capture all of it), the fresco depicts the Last Judgment and was painted by two artists, Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari, from 1572 to 1579. (The structure of the dome itself, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, was built between 1420 and 1436.)
For a little perspective, you can see how high up I am at this point:
(Shot through the plastic barrier, hence the lousy colors.)
You follow a catwalk about halfway across the interior of the dome, and then go up…
… and up…
and up.
In this shot you can see that you are entering the upper part of the dome, as the surface begins to curve.
Now, I’m proud to say that I am in decent shape at this point in my life, and while I was not huffing and puffing like some of the tourists that I passed in the corridors, my legs were aching by the time I reached the top. It was quite the workout!
Anyway–at last you come to a short but extremely steep bit of stairs that is more of a ladder than a staircase, leading up through a hole only a few feet in diameter, and once you haul yourself up through that, you emerge at the top of the dome to what is certainly one of the most beautiful cityscapes in the world.
In the above shot, there is the Church of Santa Croce on the far left, and behind it, Piazzale Michelangelo. The Arno river is also visible if you look for it.
Facing the opposite direction, the stunning Tuscan hills…
… and looking down, the shadow of the Duomo and the belltower to the left.
Capelle Medici to the right, the Church of Santa Maria Novella to the left, and the train station (Stazione Santa Maria Novella) in the middle.
Looking down again, the body of the cathedral, and the belltower.
Like I said, the weather was just astounding. There was hardly any wind, so I was quite warm, even all the way up on the roof! The sky was wonderful as well.
On the way back down, you could stop and look at some of the old tools and mechanisms used for building and restoring the cathedral.
Finally on the ground again—how small it looks from down here!
That’s all for now. I don’t have any specific plans for what’s next, but there are still many, many places in Florence that I have not seen, so rest assured that our adventures are far from over. Until next time, ciaociao!
Scuola, Scuola
Ciao, i miei amici! School started this week, so I have been very busy getting settled in at my home (an apartment I share with two other students and our landlady) and adjusting to having classes and homework and all that. Once again, I am largely without internet and I haven\’t had much time for photos, though I do have a few from the weekend that I have not posted, and there is an organized tour of Siena tomorrow that I will be attending, so you can expect some pictures soon!
Class is intense, and it is strange to come home from my day and still have to use Italian! I have never studied abroad before, so this is new and interesting. I am studying hard and trying to get over all of my fears about speaking.
In bocca al lupo! Ciaociao!